Garden Plan for 2019
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Judul : Garden Plan for 2019
link : Garden Plan for 2019
This time of year I sit down and look over my notes from last season’s vegetable garden, and come up with a plan for this year’s garden. I have 480 square feet of garden space. My goal for this part of our yard is to grow food for my family. In particular; I am looking to grow vegetable varieties I can’t get from my local farmers. I grow red and blue potatoes for this reason. I also grow paste tomatoes for canning and cherry tomatoes for dehydrating, winter squash and onions for the root cellar and herbs that I want to make into pesto or chimichurri sauces. I don't have to grow everything, nor do I have space to grow all the vegetables my family eats. My garden is a foil to what the local farmers are growing.
One of our nearby farmers, RiverRige, grows greens, carrots, and radishes year-round so I don’t bother planting those. Through my work on the farms, I get plenty of sweet pepper seconds (too damaged to sell) to freeze. And I work for a CSA share in the summer and fall that adds more variety to our diet.
In our yard and gardens, we do not use chemicals, instead relying on soil building through compost, cover crops, and mulch to add nutrients and organic matter. Pest control is through physical barriers, hot pepper powder, and hand removal. My choice of vegetables is also influenced by what grows well with these methods.
Planting Timing: We were on top of things during planting season last year. The seed potatoes and onions sets went in the ground April 20. Tomatoes were planted May 10. We got a nice soaking rain right after planting and no late freezes. As a result we had some of the first tomatoes in town. We direct seeded the zucchini, cucumber, squash and annual herbs May 15. It doesn’t get much better than that. We will see if the stars align again this year.
Mulch Earlier: The onions suffered from lack of moister and didn’t get very big. I need to be more on top of mulching them. That will help hold the irrigation water in the ground. We add compost to each garden bed every other year so, we continue to build the soil, but it is slow going. I missed getting straw and had to scramble for a different mulch and got grass clippings on too late. Tomatoes had a similar problem. I used newspaper with grass clippings on top to mulch, which did create a weed barrier and held in some moisture. Ideally the mulch would go one when the seeds go in the ground. I found I prefer leaf mold, straw or grass clippings over the newspaper.
I used cardboard along the edges of the sweet potatoes and that proved to be disastrous because a vole took up residence and nibbled about a third of our harvest. This coming year, I will be on top of procuring mulch!
Pest Management: Our tomatoes didn’t have any strange malaise this year. The newspaper mulch may have also acted as a barrier to keep soil born disease off the leaves. We did outsmart the cutworms using collars made from old yogurt containers to create a physical barrier, so they couldn’t snip off the cucumber, zucchini or squash seedlings. However, we did have issues with bunnies and vine borer. I taught myself how to find the borer eggs on the base of the stem just below ground level. I scouted regularly for tell tale holes with mush coming out to find a new one starting up. Because I didn’t start scouting before there were problems, I lost some zucchini and squash plants. This year I should start checking earlier around mid-June. Since I was hunting for squash bugs, I caught the potato bugs early and they did very little damage.
Garlic Seed: The garlic harvest was a decent; I put 65 heads in the cellar this year. I save my own seed, meaning I plant cloves from the previous year’s harvest. The last couple years I have planted 100 cloves of garlic and yielded a little less than that many heads. I held back roughly 20 of the biggest heads, broke them up and counted out 100 cloves to plant in the fall. I read that I should also be using the biggest cloves from the biggest heads. I tried that with the garlic I planted this fall. (I had been using all the cloves from the biggest heads.) We will see if it makes a difference. I wound up with a lot of small cloves left over, which I pealed and kept in the fridge and cooked with them over the next couple weeks.
Winter Squash: I grew ‘Sunshine’ kombota squash this year which are an All American Selection Winner variety. I loved them. They grew beautifully, were mildew and bug resistant, compact (for a vine), produced 3-4 squash per plant, are tasty, pretty, and a good size for a family of four to eat in one meal. Despite the warning that as a mini kombota squash they won’t hold as well, mine lasted four months after harvest. Only drawback is they are F1 hybrids and I can’t save the seeds. Still, ten out of ten, would grow again.
I also grew several varieties of pumpkins from seed exchanges. I lost a number of the vines early to squash borer. I grew them on the side of the compost pile rather than in the garden and I didn’t pay as much attention to them. Despite my neglect, we did get 14 huge ‘Connecticut Field Squash’ which it turns out are carving pumpkins (technically edible). We had a big pumpkins carving party and all but one I saved back, became decor for the season. In addition to the jack-o- lanterns, I also got one ‘Musque de Provence’ pumpkin, which is still looking pretty on the side board and we haven’t eaten it yet.
Potatoes: I was happy with the potatoes. I left them in the ground for a month after their tops died and I think I had extra scabby potatoes as a result. Scab is a bacterial disease that makes rough patches on potato skin. They tasted fine, and I saved the clean potatoes for seed.
I’m adding another big bed, or at least that’s what I hope to do; time and weather allowing. I read Braiding Sweetgrass by Robin Wall Kimmerer last spring and she talks about the Three Sisters farming method and I’d like to create a bed 11x11 feet, north of the existing garden to give that a go.
I tried to find what seeds would have been traditionally grown in this manner and I couldn’t find any that were suitable to our Midwestern climate. Most of the information I was finding was for the Southwest (https://www.nativeseeds.org/learn/nss-blog/415-3sisters). I went the Seed Savers Exchange website and chose varieties that met the requirements: tall corn, climbing beans and any variety of squash seems to do. I decided to go with all open-pollinated varieties with some history.
Here’s what I will plant in this year’s garden:
I have four garden beds of equal size so rotation is pretty straight forward. I have a note card where I keep track of the previous years, so I can see where the different plant families were over the years. I also consider which beds were composted in the fall. We compost half the garden each year. Tomatoes and squash do well in compost that isn’t all the way decomposed yet where as onions and potatoes do well in beds that were composted the year before. We don’t till, per say, but digging potatoes and sweet potatoes definitely turns the soil and plants like onions do well in loose soil. If you are interested in crop rotation Jean-Martin Fortier does a comprehensive look crop rotation and soil fertility in his book The Market Gardener. He has a ten year plan. My plan is imperfect, I do the best I can and learn as I go.
With crop rotation figured out, I print out a map of my garden and, using a pencil, draft in where each plant will go. It’s important to use a pencil because garden plans should be flexible and inevitably something won’t grow, or be in stock or you’ll see some intriguing plant at the farmers market and plants will change.
I have my own short hand I use for garden mapping. A dot indicates a singular seed and an x indicates a hill with three seeds. A circle around the dot or x means I should use a collar around my seeds to keep cutworm out.
The last step is to order what I will need for this year’s garden.
I will buy the tomatoes plants from our local hardware store. They get a decent variety and I don’t have the space/equipment to start my own seeds. I don’t order those now.
I have lots of seeds from last year; including seed potatoes, and for the first time, I am going to try starting my own sweet potato slips.
That means just the Three Sisters seeds need to be bought from Seed Savers. And the onion sets will be bought from Johnny’s Selected Seeds. I prefer to buy from as few places as possible to cut down on shipping, but Seed Savers doesn’t sell onion sets and Johnny’s doesn’t have the Native American Heirloom seed I’m looking for.
Order completed and has already arrived.
And now I'm ready for April when the onions and potatoes will be ready to put in the ground.
Anda sekarang membaca artikel Garden Plan for 2019 dengan alamat link https://howtoplanvegetable.blogspot.com/2019/02/garden-plan-for-2019.html
Judul : Garden Plan for 2019
link : Garden Plan for 2019
Garden Plan for 2019
This time of year I sit down and look over my notes from last season’s vegetable garden, and come up with a plan for this year’s garden. I have 480 square feet of garden space. My goal for this part of our yard is to grow food for my family. In particular; I am looking to grow vegetable varieties I can’t get from my local farmers. I grow red and blue potatoes for this reason. I also grow paste tomatoes for canning and cherry tomatoes for dehydrating, winter squash and onions for the root cellar and herbs that I want to make into pesto or chimichurri sauces. I don't have to grow everything, nor do I have space to grow all the vegetables my family eats. My garden is a foil to what the local farmers are growing.
One of our nearby farmers, RiverRige, grows greens, carrots, and radishes year-round so I don’t bother planting those. Through my work on the farms, I get plenty of sweet pepper seconds (too damaged to sell) to freeze. And I work for a CSA share in the summer and fall that adds more variety to our diet.
In our yard and gardens, we do not use chemicals, instead relying on soil building through compost, cover crops, and mulch to add nutrients and organic matter. Pest control is through physical barriers, hot pepper powder, and hand removal. My choice of vegetables is also influenced by what grows well with these methods.
Evaluating Last Year's Garden (2018)
Planting Timing: We were on top of things during planting season last year. The seed potatoes and onions sets went in the ground April 20. Tomatoes were planted May 10. We got a nice soaking rain right after planting and no late freezes. As a result we had some of the first tomatoes in town. We direct seeded the zucchini, cucumber, squash and annual herbs May 15. It doesn’t get much better than that. We will see if the stars align again this year.
Mulch Earlier: The onions suffered from lack of moister and didn’t get very big. I need to be more on top of mulching them. That will help hold the irrigation water in the ground. We add compost to each garden bed every other year so, we continue to build the soil, but it is slow going. I missed getting straw and had to scramble for a different mulch and got grass clippings on too late. Tomatoes had a similar problem. I used newspaper with grass clippings on top to mulch, which did create a weed barrier and held in some moisture. Ideally the mulch would go one when the seeds go in the ground. I found I prefer leaf mold, straw or grass clippings over the newspaper.
Pest Management: Our tomatoes didn’t have any strange malaise this year. The newspaper mulch may have also acted as a barrier to keep soil born disease off the leaves. We did outsmart the cutworms using collars made from old yogurt containers to create a physical barrier, so they couldn’t snip off the cucumber, zucchini or squash seedlings. However, we did have issues with bunnies and vine borer. I taught myself how to find the borer eggs on the base of the stem just below ground level. I scouted regularly for tell tale holes with mush coming out to find a new one starting up. Because I didn’t start scouting before there were problems, I lost some zucchini and squash plants. This year I should start checking earlier around mid-June. Since I was hunting for squash bugs, I caught the potato bugs early and they did very little damage.
Garlic Seed: The garlic harvest was a decent; I put 65 heads in the cellar this year. I save my own seed, meaning I plant cloves from the previous year’s harvest. The last couple years I have planted 100 cloves of garlic and yielded a little less than that many heads. I held back roughly 20 of the biggest heads, broke them up and counted out 100 cloves to plant in the fall. I read that I should also be using the biggest cloves from the biggest heads. I tried that with the garlic I planted this fall. (I had been using all the cloves from the biggest heads.) We will see if it makes a difference. I wound up with a lot of small cloves left over, which I pealed and kept in the fridge and cooked with them over the next couple weeks.
Winter Squash: I grew ‘Sunshine’ kombota squash this year which are an All American Selection Winner variety. I loved them. They grew beautifully, were mildew and bug resistant, compact (for a vine), produced 3-4 squash per plant, are tasty, pretty, and a good size for a family of four to eat in one meal. Despite the warning that as a mini kombota squash they won’t hold as well, mine lasted four months after harvest. Only drawback is they are F1 hybrids and I can’t save the seeds. Still, ten out of ten, would grow again.
I also grew several varieties of pumpkins from seed exchanges. I lost a number of the vines early to squash borer. I grew them on the side of the compost pile rather than in the garden and I didn’t pay as much attention to them. Despite my neglect, we did get 14 huge ‘Connecticut Field Squash’ which it turns out are carving pumpkins (technically edible). We had a big pumpkins carving party and all but one I saved back, became decor for the season. In addition to the jack-o- lanterns, I also got one ‘Musque de Provence’ pumpkin, which is still looking pretty on the side board and we haven’t eaten it yet.
Potatoes: I was happy with the potatoes. I left them in the ground for a month after their tops died and I think I had extra scabby potatoes as a result. Scab is a bacterial disease that makes rough patches on potato skin. They tasted fine, and I saved the clean potatoes for seed.
Additions or changes for this year:
I’m adding another big bed, or at least that’s what I hope to do; time and weather allowing. I read Braiding Sweetgrass by Robin Wall Kimmerer last spring and she talks about the Three Sisters farming method and I’d like to create a bed 11x11 feet, north of the existing garden to give that a go.
I tried to find what seeds would have been traditionally grown in this manner and I couldn’t find any that were suitable to our Midwestern climate. Most of the information I was finding was for the Southwest (https://www.nativeseeds.org/learn/nss-blog/415-3sisters). I went the Seed Savers Exchange website and chose varieties that met the requirements: tall corn, climbing beans and any variety of squash seems to do. I decided to go with all open-pollinated varieties with some history.
- Mandan Bride Corn - Attributed to the Mandan tribe of North Dakota; this Native American flour corn was planted by Mandan women along with beans, sunflowers, and squash. This corn with its colorful autumnal kernels, some of which are striped, can be used in fall displays or ground into corn meal. Plants will produce several 6-8” ears on 6’ plants
- Hidatsa Shield Bean - From the Hidatsa tribe who raised corn, squash, beans, and sunflowers in the Missouri River Valley of North Dakota. Shield Figure beans are described in Buffalo Bird Woman’s Garden (1917). This very productive variety was boarded onto Slow Food USA’s Ark of Taste in 2005. Pole habit, dry, 90 days.
- Sibley Squash - Introduced by Hiram Sibley &; Co. of Rochester, New York in 1888. Superb banana squash with thick sweet flesh. James J. H. Gregory found it simply “magnificent.” Winner of the SSE staff taste test in 2014. Hard-rinded, inversely pear shaped, excellent keeper.
List of Seeds, Starts and Sets
Here’s what I will plant in this year’s garden:
Basil (32 seeds)
‘Sunshine’ Kombota squash (9seeds)
Sweet Potatoes (12 slips)
Cucumber ‘Harmony’ (6 seeds)
Paste Tomatoes (12)
Slicer Tomatoes (2)
Red Cherry Tomatoes (2)
‘Sun Gold’ cherry tomatoes (4)
Cilantro (12)
Dill (6)
Parsley (12)
Zucchini (8)
Keeper yellow onions like ‘Patterson’ or ‘Copra’ (2 x 50 onion sets)
Keeper red onions like ‘Redwing’ (1 x 50 onion set)
Garlic (100 cloves)
Fingerling potato ‘Magic Molly’ (12 seed potatoes)
Potato ‘Adirondack Red’ (14 seed potatoes)
Potato ‘Adirondack Blue’ (12 seed potatoes)
Potato ‘Bora Valley’ (14 seed potatoes)
Flint Corn ‘Mandan Bride’ flint corn (Three Sisters)
‘Hidatsa Shield Bean’ vining dry bean (Three Sisters)
‘Sibley’ Hubbard squash (Three Sisters)
Crop Rotation
I have four garden beds of equal size so rotation is pretty straight forward. I have a note card where I keep track of the previous years, so I can see where the different plant families were over the years. I also consider which beds were composted in the fall. We compost half the garden each year. Tomatoes and squash do well in compost that isn’t all the way decomposed yet where as onions and potatoes do well in beds that were composted the year before. We don’t till, per say, but digging potatoes and sweet potatoes definitely turns the soil and plants like onions do well in loose soil. If you are interested in crop rotation Jean-Martin Fortier does a comprehensive look crop rotation and soil fertility in his book The Market Gardener. He has a ten year plan. My plan is imperfect, I do the best I can and learn as I go.
Draft the Garden Plan
With crop rotation figured out, I print out a map of my garden and, using a pencil, draft in where each plant will go. It’s important to use a pencil because garden plans should be flexible and inevitably something won’t grow, or be in stock or you’ll see some intriguing plant at the farmers market and plants will change.
I have my own short hand I use for garden mapping. A dot indicates a singular seed and an x indicates a hill with three seeds. A circle around the dot or x means I should use a collar around my seeds to keep cutworm out.
Place Seed and Plant Order
The last step is to order what I will need for this year’s garden.
I will buy the tomatoes plants from our local hardware store. They get a decent variety and I don’t have the space/equipment to start my own seeds. I don’t order those now.
I have lots of seeds from last year; including seed potatoes, and for the first time, I am going to try starting my own sweet potato slips.
That means just the Three Sisters seeds need to be bought from Seed Savers. And the onion sets will be bought from Johnny’s Selected Seeds. I prefer to buy from as few places as possible to cut down on shipping, but Seed Savers doesn’t sell onion sets and Johnny’s doesn’t have the Native American Heirloom seed I’m looking for.
Order completed and has already arrived.
And now I'm ready for April when the onions and potatoes will be ready to put in the ground.
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